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 | Barry
Join Date: Posts: 1 
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1999-10-27 9176
I have a 33hp 4wd Kubota with FEL. I want to break up some ground and grade a rough road to my barn. I haven't had my tractor long and I"m not real sure of it's capabilities when it comes to breaking up ground. I would appreciate some advice on which implement might would work best for my tractor and my intentions. I have a used boxblade but it dosen't seem to be heavy enough to bite into the soil. Is there something else that might bust up the soil prior to using a boxblade - short of a backhoe??
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| Roger L.
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 0
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1999-10-27 9182
If you have an agricultural tractor dealer nearby you might try this: Tell him that you want a category 1 toolbar set up about two bars deep. And on those bars you want about a total of a dozen spring tooth harrows - (or however many he thinks you can pull). The kind you are looking for have a replaceable digger point, a shank about a foot and a half long, and the part that attaches to the tool bar is a sort of coiled spring that winds around the tool bar. The whole thing will shimmy and jump as you pull it and after you go back and forth a few times it will break on through the surface and be digging into the dirt below. It is the perfect tool for preparing a seed bed for planting. If you have the kind of box blade that has four to 6 rigid digger points you might try that as an option. I find that mine is a lot harder to pull and doesn't do as well in the hard pack than the harrow. I re-worked a baseball infield this Summer. It was packed very hard and was a sort of clay and sand mixture. To break the dirt up I mounted a bolt-on tooth bar onto the cutting edge of my front end loader's bucket, tilted the bucket to the proper angle, tied the control lever into the "float" position, and then back-dragged the whole whole infield with the tractor in reverse. Took several evenings. Later I found out that lots of ball fields have an old junky 4 foot wide cross-bar disker for doing this. It can be pulled or used with a three point. I suspect that this type of disk would have worked even better than the spring-tooth harrow or the front end loader with the tooth bar.....ah, well...if only I had known at the time! Roger ....
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| Bird Senter
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 962 
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1999-10-28 9193
Barry, I'm not sure what your box blade is, or whether you have the ripper teeth for it, but I've been taking down an old stock tank dam that is extremely hard, dry clay, and I just lower the 5 ripper teeth as low as they go (on a 5 foot box blade) then let the blade down just far enough to get the ripper teeth into the ground without letting the blade pick up the dirt, and my 27 hp Kubota rips it up just fine. The farther you tilt the box blade forward, the deeper the ripper teeth get into the ground. ....
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| BS
Join Date: Posts: 1
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1999-10-28 9197
Get a tooth bar for your loader bucket and backdrag that across the ground. ....
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| Roger L.
Join Date: Jun 1999 Posts: 0
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1999-10-30 9274
Steve, that's all real accurate as far as I can see. My box blade works just like you say when I'm working dirt. I was looking back at my previous message and wondering why I've gone to the spring tooth harrow instead of the box blade....I must have had a good reason?...and then I remembered: It was because of rocks. I have lots and lots of rocks in my soil. And if you have dirt with large buried rocks then the rigid teeth of the box blade will always be hanging up on the rocks and stopping the tractor. The spring tooth harrow is flexible enough to dance around or over most of these rocks. Again it is "diffferent horses for different courses". Roger ....
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| RCH
Join Date: Posts: 1
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1999-10-30 9277
I`ve a 1910 Ford(~30hp).For $75 I brought a 4-row 3 point cultivator used(it`s an Oliver).I cut off about 18" on each end and moved the shovels in close on the remaining tool-bar which cover my tracks.This works well for busting-up soil,going deeper with each pass,once you get past the sod. A tiller is ideal for grinding up the sod or established growth so it does`t clog the tines.It definately will go deeper than a tiller and ,done once, allows the tiller to go deeper on a yearly redo situation like a garden. It`s heavy, over-built and cheap. ....
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| RCH
Join Date: Posts: 1
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1999-10-30 9279
Another factor I forgot;straight shovels as opposed to "sweeps" are readily available(good ole Fleet-Farm in my neigborhood)and penetrate easier and deeper.The shovel are closer together anyway-perhap straights in the front rows of tines,sweeps in the back. ....
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